Visiting The Dolomites of Italy? Embrace Agriturismos For A Local Experience

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While August is frequently the month of summer holidays here in Germany and much of Europe, I have come to think of May as its little sister. With several national and state wide holidays sprinkled throughout the month here in Bavaria, May happily features a few long weekends, normally characterized by delightful spring weather. I have found that these are particularly perfect for little exploration jaunts around the area and most recently, we had the opportunity to venture into the Tyrol region of Austria and Italy. A beautiful area marked by the Alps, Dolomites, and a mixture of cultures and agriculture, Tyrol is simply wonderful. Whether you are hoping to visit quaint cities like Innsbruck or Bolzano, experience outdoor adventures in the mountains or see a more rural side of life through farm stays, spending some time in Tyrol is absolutely worth it. Both only a few hours from Munich, this region is split into two main sections: North Tyrol surrounding Innsbruck in Austria with the Alps and South Tyrol surrounding the Dolomites in Northern Italy. While we visited Innsbruck on our way through the area, we spent the majority of our time exploring the South Tyrolean region which I highly recommend! So, if you are hoping to add the Dolomites of Italy to your bucket list, be sure to embrace agriturismos, outdoor adventures and city explorations for the best local experience of the region. 

Tyrol: A Blend Of Cultures 

The Tyrol area has a long and somewhat complicated history. Up until the end of World War I, Tyrol was one large region, the County of Tyrol, united under the Austrian Habsburg Empire as it had been for over 500 years. This area was largely characterized by agriculture and trade along the mountain passes connecting the Germanic influenced north and Italian south. Remains of castles, palaces and fortresses can still be seen all throughout the hills and valleys as influential figures claimed land with strategic spots for trade and protection. 

After WWI however, the Tyrol region was split, with the northern portion around Innsbruck and the Alps remaining Austrian and South Tyrol, the area surrounding the Dolomite Mountains, becoming Italian. While this change brought many struggles, South Tyrol has since gained some freedom from the Italian capital to make decisions best for its local citizens, particularly in terms of agriculture, education, culture, transportation etc. as it seeks to create a blending of German and Italian heritage. For this reason, upon visiting, you will often see street signs in both Italian and German, hear both the German and Italian languages spoken and see traditional German foods featured on menus alongside pizza and pastas. Beer gardens with wait staff in lederhosen and dirndls sit next to gelato shops and coffee bars, all creating a rich, relaxed and orderly conglomeration of culture. 

Italian Alps vs. Dolomites? 

You might be wondering, what really is the difference between the Italian Alps and the Dolomites? Technically, they are within the same mountain range, however the mountains within the northeast corner of Italy (closer to Verona and Venice) are formed primarily from limestone and a carbonate rock called dolomite, therefore giving the Dolomites of Italy their name. This rock formation leads to the mountains being quite pale and often pinkish in color. The Italian Alps on the other hand are closer to Milan and Torino. Both the Dolomites and Italian Alps are not as accessible and connected to public transportation as perhaps the French, Swiss or German Alps are, however they are stunning and provide amazingly unique views in combination with their fascinating culture. 

The History Of Agriturismos

As an area rich with meadows, pastures and forests, South Tyrol is filled with thousands of farms nestled within the mountains. Whether farming livestock, vineyards, or lumber, these farms have been passed down through the generations particularly due to a regional ‘closed farm’ law to protect farm families. After seeing how the splitting of farms in lower Italy was causing many to move towards the cities, South Tyrol created a ‘closed farm’ law to transfer entire farm estates to one successor, therefore not allowing the estates to be split up among heirs. Over 11,000 farms in the region operate in this fashion and have been preserved throughout the generations. 

Likewise, to further encourage agriculture in both this region and throughout much of Italy, the Italian government provides incentives for farms that also offer accommodations for guests to come experience a taste of farm life. Like our stay on an olive farm in Tuscany and lemon grove along the Amalfi Coast, our stay at an agriturismo within South Tyrol helped provide not only a wonderful experience but also a better understanding and appreciation for the agricultural heritage of the region. 

Benefits Of A Farm Stay In The Dolomites Of Italy

Beyond the rich history of agriturismos, there are SO many benefits to staying at a local farm during your time in Italy and particularly your time here near the Dolomites. This accommodation type has become my favorite way to travel in Italy as it provides such an amazing local look at life. While a car is needed to access most agriturismo properties since they are more rural, the views and unique settings they provide are certainly worth it. A few of my favorite benefits are: 

Scenery 

When coming to explore the Dolomites, you know you will have beautiful scenery throughout your trip, but it is even better when you can wake up to it daily! And this was definitely our experience during our stay at Agritourism Alpinus as they had an incredible view of Val Badia and Saint Martin in Badia. One of the highest houses on the mountain, Agritourism Alpinus sits next to the Piculin ski slopes and therefore has a panoramic view of the Dolomites which is simply stunning, particularly at sunset. If you are looking for amazing scenery, then finding an agriturismo like Alpinus with an incredible location is a must. 

Food 

Not only did Agritourism Alpinus have an incredible view but they also had incredible food! Each morning we awoke to a huge basket of goodies outside our door with a beautiful spread of products, many from their own farm. Since each of their accommodations comes with a kitchen, we were able to fix the eggs to our liking and save any remaining fruit or drinks or other items in our fridge for snacks later in the day. Being able to try products from the farm I am staying at, (whether that be milk and eggs or olive oil and lemons!) is one of my favorite parts of staying at local agriturismos throughout Italy and especially when staying in Tyrol, that is a part you don’t want to miss! 

Activities & Recommendations 

Another amazing benefit to staying local in the Dolomites is the ability to tap into the knowledge and resources of the hosts you are with! For instance, since our hosts were located next to the ski slopes and hiking trails, we were able to take off on a hike without even driving to future areas and should you be there in winter, you could just pop over to the ski slopes should you like to give one of the steepest black runs in Italy (with a 72% grade!!) a try. And even if those slopes are a little past your level, there are many, many options in the area. Beyond just activities though, our hosts were able to provide us with a variety of restaurant recommendations which in turn led us to perhaps my favorite pizza I have ever had in Italy (at Cristla Restaurant & Pizza)! It was delicious and we even went back twice. So, when staying local, definitely lean into the experience and recommendations of your hosts as they can make such a difference in your trip! 

Hospitality On The Farm

My last favorite benefit to embracing agriturismos when experiencing the Dolomites is the hospitality you have the opportunity to experience on the farm. At Alpinus, our host family was  so kind to not only provide recommendations, but also a farm tour (and in some seasons, farms may allow you to join in their tasks if you hope to!), books, games and so many other aspects to allow our stay to be a great one. Certainly, you can interact with your hosts as much or little as you please, but regardless, their hospitality and seeking to make your local experience as pleasant as possible is such a personal and wonderful opportunity for connection that you might not receive in a hotel. 

Our Favorite Spots In South Tyrol 

While staying at a local agriturismo was definitely one of the highlights of our trip, there are many things that make South Tyrol and the Dolomites of Italy memorable. As a hiking, skiing and mountain biking paradise, the Dolomites have a plethora of outdoor adventure options available, however we did discover that some of their hikes which require gondolas to reach them have more varying seasonality than that which we have experienced within the German Alps. If you visit during the “shoulder season” like we did, just be sure to research the specific elements you are hoping to do to ensure they are open. Regardless of season though, I would totally recommend to: 

Enjoy Lago Di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) 

A natural glacial lake in the Dolomites, Lago Di Braies or Pragser Wildsee is a captivating turquoise green colored lake which is simply enchanting. Whether experiencing the lake from the water in a wooden boat or by hiking around its shores, you are sure to be amazed by both the mountain and lake views. It was one of the bluest bodies of water I have ever seen and while it is a bit chilly for swimming (as it is a glacial lake), it definitely is worth the hike around! 

Explore Bolzano & Bruneck 

While the Dolomites and their outdoor adventures might be the main star of the show in this region, the city and town of Bolzano and Bruneck are absolutely worth a visit as well! Both feature lovely quaint shops, winding streets, delicious restaurants, beautiful churches (with both stained glass features and mosaics), public parks and the best gelato we have had since Florence. The people are delightful and the atmosphere feels like the best of Germany and Italy blended together. 

Final Thoughts

From farm tours, glacial lakes, hikes with views, amazing food and culturally rich cities, the Dolomites of Italy throughout South Tyrol are a really special area to visit. While we only had a few days to explore, I most certainly would go back! And I absolutely recommend adding them to your list of places to check out, especially experiencing them through the beauty of an agriturismo. While you might have to pay for parking or tolls along the way, I love that hiking and/or wandering a city is mostly free (as long as you have shopping willpower!), so visiting this region can certainly be done in an affordable fashion. So, I would love to know – have you ever stayed at an agriturismo or have any tips for the Dolomites?! Just drop a comment below to share and be sure to save this post for future travels! 

Happy traveling!

Chloe

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